The Cost Guide
Kitchen and bathroom renovations look straightforward until you sit down with numbers. You've seen estimates online—wildly different ones—and you're trying to figure out if yours makes sense. This guide walks through what you're actually paying for, where costs vary most, and the questions that separate a realistic budget from one that will blindside you partway through the work.
We've watched costs surprise homeowners in the same ways repeatedly. The cabinet line item looks reasonable until you add hardware. The flooring quote forgets to mention prep. The timeline says "four weeks" until demo uncovers something structural. None of these are scams; they're gaps between what you expected and what the job actually demands. Knowing what questions to ask upfront saves thousands in mid-project scrambling.
The Options Compared
| Scope | Budget Range | Typical Timeline | Key Variables |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cabinet refacing only | $3,000–$8,000 | 2–3 weeks | Existing cabinet quality, hardware choices, finish complexity |
| Partial kitchen remodel | $15,000–$35,000 | 6–10 weeks | Cabinetry, countertop material, appliance swaps, plumbing moves |
| Full kitchen remodel | $50,000–$150,000+ | 12–16 weeks | Structural changes, custom cabinetry, high-end finishes, electrical work |
| Bathroom renovation | $8,000–$30,000 | 6–8 weeks | Fixture upgrades, tile work, plumbing complexity, structural damage |
| Ranges are based on Boston and Manchester NH markets as of 2026. Regional labor costs and material availability shift these numbers; your actual budget depends on the specifics of your space and your material choices. | |||
When to Call a Professional
You can handle some parts of a renovation yourself—painting, minor demolition, finishing work—and save thousands. But certain things require actual expertise, which means an actual professional. Knowing which is which keeps you from false economies.
Structural work, plumbing, electrical, and load-bearing changes absolutely require a licensed contractor or specialist. Custom cabinetry almost certainly does—the difference between a $200 mistake on a stock cabinet and a $2,000 mistake on a custom one makes a DIY attempt risky. Countertop installation varies: some materials (solid surface) homeowners manage; others (marble, quartz) benefit from professional install.
The professional install often costs less than your time fixing the DIY version. A tile setter spends a day on work that would take you three weeks; a cabinet installer gets the alignment right the first time. Your budget usually comes out ahead, and you definitely sleep better not having to live with subpar work for years while you save up to redo it.
Questions to Ask Before Committing
Does the estimate include demolition, or is that separate?
Demo costs vary wildly. A straightforward tear-out runs $500–$2,000; discovering structural issues or asbestos tiles can add thousands. Make sure your contractor walks through the demo as a distinct line item so surprises don't derail your timeline or budget.
What happens if the contractor finds something unexpected behind the walls?
This is the question that separates an estimate from a bet. Ask how change orders work: Are they pre-approved in writing? What's the cost? How long does it delay the project? A contractor who's done this before has a process; one who doesn't is unprepared for reality.
Is hardware included, and what quality level?
Cabinet hardware looks minor until you're budgeting. Mid-range stainless handles run $10–20 each; designer hardware runs $50–100. With 40 cabinets, that's the difference between $400 and $2,000. Know what the quote includes and what you're upgrading.
Who handles the permitting, and what does it cost?
Permits usually cost $200–$800 depending on scope and location. Some contractors roll it into their quote; some bill it separately. You need to know upfront, and you need confirmation that the work will be permitted and inspected. Unpermitted renovation becomes your problem when you sell the house.
What to Consider First
Before you get three estimates, figure out what you're actually trying to solve. Are the cabinets failing structurally, or do they just feel dated? Is the bathroom layout awkward, or is the toilet non-functional? Is this a someday-nice-to-have, or a right-now-must-happen problem? The answer changes what you budget for.
Research from the EPA's Renovation, Repair and Painting Program shows that roughly three-quarters of U.S. homes built before 1978 contain lead-based paint—which matters a great deal once you're pulling out cabinets in an older house. That's a line item worth budgeting for before the demo starts, not after. If your home was built before 1978, factor in lead-safe demolition and cleanup; it's not negotiable, and it adds $1,000–$3,000 depending on scope.
The real cost also includes what you lose while the work happens. How long can you live with half a kitchen? Can you cook elsewhere? How many days of contractor access can you accommodate? Some of the highest-stress parts of a renovation aren't the cost—they're the disruption. Factor that into your decision.
What It Typically Costs
| Line Item | Typical Cost Range | Notes & Variables |
|---|---|---|
| Stock cabinetry (per linear foot) | $100–$300 | Semi-custom runs $400–$700; full custom $800–$2,000+ |
| Countertops (per sq. ft.) | Laminate $15–$40; quartz $80–$150; granite $50–$120 | Edge detail, backsplash, and undermounting add cost |
| Tile flooring (per sq. ft.) | $8–$20 material; $10–$15 labor | Prep, grout, and sealing add $200–$500 total |
| Backsplash installation | $800–$2,500 | Depends on tile choice, pattern complexity, and square footage |
| Appliance package (basic) | $3,000–$6,000 | Mid-range to high-end runs $8,000–$15,000+ |
| Plumbing rough-in and fixtures | $2,000–$5,000 | Sink swap is cheaper; new layout costs more |
| Electrical work (full upgrade) | $3,000–$8,000 | New circuits, outlets, and lighting design included |
| Labor costs vary by region and contractor experience. These are 2026 Boston/Manchester NH market rates. Get three estimates; the lowest isn't always the best value, and the highest might be overkill for what you need. | ||
The biggest variable in kitchen and bathroom costs is material choice. Pick mid-range cabinets and countertops, and you're in the $15,000–$35,000 range for a decent partial remodel. Go high-end—premium cabinetry, natural stone, integrated appliances—and $80,000 becomes the new baseline. There's no "right" answer; there's only what fits your budget and what you'll live with for the next ten years.
One last thing: whatever estimate you get, add 10–15% for contingency. Demo reveals a structural issue. A plumbing wall needs rerouting. A special-order cabinet is delayed. Contingency is the difference between a project that comes in close to budget and one that burns cash and schedules in equal measure. It's not optional; it's arithmetic.
